Primed Parts

Assembly lube and a rebuild kit for my power steering pump. I recently rebuilt the power steering gear box and found mass quanities of sludge. So I thought it best to rebuild the power steering pump before painting.

Power Steering Pump Rebuild Supplies Assembly lube and a rebuild kit for my power steering pump. I recently rebuilt the power steering gear box and found mass quanities of sludge. So I thought it best to rebuild the power steering pump before painting.

This is the transmission assembly lube that I used. The kit instructions called for brake lube or petroleum jelly as an assembly lube. I think this will be just as good.

Assembly Lube This is the transmission assembly lube that I used. The kit instructions called for brake lube or petroleum jelly as an assembly lube. I think this will be just as good.

Pump Kit This is the ACDelco kit i used. You can see it made in America.

This is what the kit contained and the instructions were clear and easy to follow. The old pump bushing had some wear and the shaft had slight play. This would explain why the shaft seal was leaking again.

Kit Contents This is what the kit contained and the instructions were clear and easy to follow. The old pump bushing had some wear and the shaft had slight play. This would explain why the shaft seal was leaking again.

Here's a picture of the rebuilt pump primed and ready for color. I did not get any pictures of the pump rebuild. It was very straight forward. The pump internals were covered in a black film and the magnet inside the pump was coated with metal particles.

Primed Pump Here's a picture of the rebuilt pump primed and ready for color. I did not get any pictures of the pump rebuild. It was very straight forward. The pump internals were covered in a black film and the magnet inside the pump was coated with metal particles.

Pressure Wash I started by pressure washing and degreasing all the parts I wanted to prime and paint.

Etch Solution Metal prep or metal ready are chemicals that etch the surface of the metal to give the paint something to stick to (tooth). I found this at the hardware store and is way cheaper than the name brand stuff metal ready. You can also use it as a rust remover just follow the instructions on the container. As a metal prep or etch just mix 3 parts water to 1 part solution, spray it on, wait 15 minutes, wash it off, let the part dry, and paint. The metal turns kinda gray like it was sandblasted. This is the primer I used. When dry it completely seals the metal from oxygen, water, and chemicals. As a primer the instructions call for two coats.

This is the primer I used. When dry it completely seals the metal from oxygen, water, and chemicals. As a primer the instructions call for two coats.

Primer This is the primer I used. When dry it completely seals the metal from oxygen, water, and chemicals. As a primer the instructions call for two coats.

I got this from Harbor Freight just for this job. It's the $10 sprayer (on sale) and when set up correctly it did a fine job. The coating I used contains aluminum powder to help seal the metal from further corrosion. This sprayer handled the material just fine (no thinning required).

HVLP Sprayer I got this from Harbor Freight just for this job. It's the $10 sprayer (on sale) and when set up correctly it did a fine job. The coating I used contains aluminum powder to help seal the metal from further corrosion. This sprayer handled the material just fine (no thinning required).

Here are the motor mount clam shells (very rusty), dust sheilds (galvanized and had no rust to start), front steering knuckles (cast iron very little rust but very greasy), and power steering pump (sandblasted the old paint off).

Primed Parts Here are the motor mount clam shells (very rusty), dust sheilds (galvanized and had no rust to start), front steering knuckles (cast iron very little rust but very greasy), and power steering pump (sandblasted the old paint off).

Here is the transmission crossmember (very greasy and rusty near the bolt holes), transmission shift cable bracket (custom made by me), transmission gear selector linkage (custom made by me), header support barcket (spotted with light rust), and hood release (spotted with light rust).

Primed Parts Here is the transmission crossmember (very greasy and rusty near the bolt holes), transmission shift cable bracket (custom made by me), transmission gear selector linkage (custom made by me), header support barcket (spotted with light rust), and hood release (spotted with light rust).

Primed Parts Back side of the parts.

Primed Parts Backside of the other rack.

In this close up you can see the pitting left from the rust. I use a wire wheel to remove the loose rust after pressure washing. Then cleaned, etched, washed, and primed.

Primed Parts In this close up you can see the pitting left from the rust. I use a wire wheel to remove the loose rust after pressure washing. Then cleaned, etched, washed, and primed. Front brake dust shields. These are galvanized metal so they had no rust at all. Used brake clean to remove the heavy build up. Then cleaned, etched, washed and primed.

Front brake dust shields. These are galvanized metal so they had no rust at all. Used brake clean to remove the heavy build up. Then cleaned, etched, washed and primed.

Primed Parts Front brake dust shields. These are galvanized metal so they had no rust at all. Used brake clean to remove the heavy build up. Then cleaned, etched, washed and primed.

These are the steering knuckles and spindles. They are cast iron with steel spindles and only had light surface rust due to the mass quanities of grease and other grime. Cleaned, pressure washed, degreased, etched, washed, dried, and primed.

Primed Parts These are the steering knuckles and spindles. They are cast iron with steel spindles and only had light surface rust due to the mass quanities of grease and other grime. Cleaned, pressure washed, degreased, etched, washed, dried, and primed.

Close-up of the transmission crossmember. This part was mostly covered in transmission fluid and road grime so it had light surface rust in the center section. Both ends however were rusty and needed to be wire wheeled.

Primed Parts Close-up of the transmission crossmember. This part was mostly covered in transmission fluid and road grime so it had light surface rust in the center section. Both ends however were rusty and needed to be wire wheeled.

This is the shift cable bracket and the gear selector linkage. Both of these were made by me. Removed the mill scale, degreased, etched, washed, and primed.

Primed Parts This is the shift cable bracket and the gear selector linkage. Both of these were made by me. Removed the mill scale, degreased, etched, washed, and primed.

This is the header support bracket. It connects to the hood release assembly. It was spotted with light rust from where the paint came off over the years. Cleaned, etched, washed, and primed.

Primed Parts This is the header support bracket. It connects to the hood release assembly. It was spotted with light rust from where the paint came off over the years. Cleaned, etched, washed, and primed. Hood release assembly. Again spotted with light rust from paint that came off over the years. Cleaned, degreased, etched, washed, and primed.

Hood release assembly. Again spotted with light rust from paint that came off over the years. Cleaned, degreased, etched, washed, and primed.

Primed Parts Hood release assembly. Again spotted with light rust from paint that came off over the years. Cleaned, degreased, etched, washed, and primed.

Before etching and after washing off the etching solution. All the parts were wiped down using gloves and lacquer thinner. This seemed to work very well at removing all traces of oils so the etch would work better and the primer would stick better.

Supplies Before etching and after washing off the etching solution. All the parts were wiped down using gloves and lacquer thinner. This seemed to work very well at removing all traces of oils so the etch would work better and the primer would stick better.